Belize Water "Lettuce"...

About a year ago, Karen got some clumps of "water lettuce."  Being resourceful and willing to try anything, she used a black plastic bucket about 3 feet in diameter and 14 inches deep or so and stuck it directly in the ground. No holes in the bottom. Filled it with some stones, water and the plants and walked away. Just refilling the water as needed. It has been quite surprising how much these stay in bloom... of course, more so in the rains. 

Pontederia cordata
Family: Pontederiaceae
Pickeral Plant, Pickerelweed, Blue Pickerel

The Kendal Bridge... Southern Highway

Let's talk about the Kendal Bridge.  Two years ago, during particularly nasty Tropical Storm Arthur, which formed off the coast of Belize on May 31, 2008 and quickly moved ashore, dumping as much as 15 inches of rain on the country and in the mountains of Guatemala in early June.

The Kendal Bridge over the Sittee River at Mile 13.7 of the Southern Highway between Hopkins and Maya Centre was destroyed, cutting off road access to points south, including Placencia and Punta Gorda.

The Kendal Bridge was originally built in 1985 with British Aid Funds. It had an over all span of 237 feet, with navigable clearance of 23 feet and carriageway width of 24 feet.

After the bridge was destroyed in the Tropical Storm Arthur flooding, a dirt, gravel and culvert causeway was built over the river, allowing cars, trucks and buses to pass. A few months later, in late October, 2008, the U.S. military provided a temporary replacement bridge, which was never installed. This, for reasons that have never been clear to me.

Since then a steel and wood causeway structure has serviced reasonably well, but it is only several feet off the river when it is at its' lowest point, and with any rise in river level during rains, it is quickly under water. A permanent replacement bridge is planned, but work has not begun on this project.

Tropical Storm Arthur flood that washed away the Kendal Bridge

The initial temporary causeway...

The "more permanent" and current steel girder bridge...

Those of us in the tourism business watch the mountain rains pretty closely on the weather radar and forecasts, and monitor various sources of information to try to keep us and our guests informed.  There is even a Facebook page that folks contribute bulletins of news and tidbits of information. 

Dial 636 here in Belize and it rings some GOB Transport Department office (I assume) apparently set up to provide Kendal Bridge information. I don't know what office, where it's located or who is answering... but the person I've spoken with twice sounded readily knowledgeable. The regular GOB National Emergency Management Office (NEMO) phone is 522-0061 (regular office hours).  

Belize Cell Phones and Internet...

I frequently get asked about cell phones here on the Peninsula.  This morning I responded to a friends' questions and realized that most of the information was pretty "generic." By no means am I an expert with this stuff... and I suspect that many of you may have more current and accurate details... so please add your comments.

You will need a "GSM" phone (that's the network type here in Belize and the most common in the "rest of the world," except US) for it to work in Belize. It takes a SIM drop-in chip. So you can buy pre-paid minutes here in Belize, etc. Also stores your address book/numbers/etc.  They are reasonably easy to come by online... just be sure to buy an "unlocked" one. I found a Samsung (Gravity 2) while we were in San Diego that has a "querty" keyboard... I hate typing in names and phone numbers on the standard cell phone key pads... it's awkward and frustrating!  

Samsung Gravity 2

Samsung Gravity 2

You can get a decent cell phone right here in Placencia for $100 or $200 USD... or less, drop in a sim chip and be on your way... not a smart phone, but it does the job. With four BTL cell towers on the Peninsula, coverage isn't an issue... or maybe it is if you enroll in the "Smart" plan competitor. Too many "smarts" to sort out! On balance I think BTL has the better coverage. But that may have changed.


 I haven't sprung for an iPhone... but they do seem to work here. I am told you can purchase them here (? through BTL) for about $2000 BZE! The iPhone does need to be "unlocked," and they are pricey when purchased without a contract. It seems pointless to me since you can't really (yet) use most of the desirable internet features of any "smart phone" here... at least not smoothly or economically that I know of. 


BTW, Southern Cable TV network is now offering internet service... and is working it's way up the Peninsula. Somewhat less expensive than BTL. I have switched to them for the Cabanas (and replaced the satellite here at our place), and it works well. Several "levels" of speed and price... from about $77 BZE/month for 128k on up. That does not include your cable TV monthly fee of about $40 BZE.

Dugu

Several weeks ago, our neighbors tragically lost a family member in an auto accident. Seine Bight, of course, is a Garifuna village and one of several in Belize. As part of the healing process after a death, an extended ceremony called a dugu is held.

"The Garinagu believe that unhappy ancestral spirits cause bad things to happen to people, such as making them sick, to get their attention.  The purpose of the dugu is to appease the ancestors, to make them happy, and to heal the living of illnesses and other adversities."

To the beat of drummers, the final night was held, and the haunting sounds of the music filled the air till dawn...

The Adventures of Viki Doolittle and Family!

From the wonderful TravelPod Blog 

of Viki Doolittle...

"As usual David and I rise early, about 5 am. My night has been filled with strange and wild dreams but I awaken refreshed and lazy. While I lounge in bed with the a/c blasting, David wanders down to our dock and begins making friends with every person he encounters on the beach. Random fishermen, our guard, kids walking by and of course dogs. There were only about 4 people but David got to know them all. Almost everyone we encounter is black, with rich very dark skin and speak with a lovely sing song cadence. David has a great way in strange places of using that naivety of his to disarm and information gather. As a result, we find out that: no the water is not supposed to be this murky and will clear soon; that yes there are tons of fish to be had and we will have enough lobster to feed an army delivered by dark tonight; town is just down the street; turn our beer bottles in every time we swap out a case and yes the sand flies were biting. David jumps right into the beautiful ocean and swims as far out as he can and can still stand about with his head one foot above water.
I join him about 7 am and the water is unbelievable. At least 80 degrees, probably warmer, I am ready to turn in my hot tub for a life here. Water is still too murky to see anything but we can feel the long sea grass caressing our legs. The ocean here is very gentle, almost no waves but still gray today due to the storms we encountered on the ride down. Large pelicans and pterodactyl looking sea birds glide across Looking back at the house from the water, it is truly a paradise. The cabana is immaculate, set back about 100 feet from the waters edge. In Belize, you cannot own the first 66 feet of beach from waters edge back, so our cabana fence starts exactly 66 feet away. Coconut palms sway gently as their offspring roll back and forth in the short surf. It is so quiet and beautiful, I have found the peace I craved.
When the rest of the family start to get up I throw together a quick breakfast of scrabbled eggs with cheese, fried potatoes with onions and of course the requisite fresh corn tortillas and black beans. Washed down with a Beliken or rum and pineapple, I cannot complain and I won't!"

Read the rest of Viki's Belize TravelPod blog entries... 

HERE.

More Guatemala... Antigua

During our trip to Guatemala City, we had a free day, so a tour of the nearby old city of Antigua seemed appropriate. It is steeped in history, of course, and the ruins and restorations are stunning.  Destroyed many times over the centuries by earthquakes, volcanic eruptions and war, it was once the "capitol" of Guatemala. More photos. 

Above... Study in contrasts in one of the many churches in Antigua.

One of the many beautiful fountains and parks.

More contrasts.

Restored Cathedral

Aerial view updates of The Maine Stay and Kokomo... Belize

So, on the way back from a quick trip to Belize City, the pilot flew right over the Peninsula and the afternoon light was pretty good for some aerial shots of The Maine Stay and Kokomo. It never ceases to amaze us how the trees and landscape plants grow and grow! Oh yes... how about that beautifully newly paved Peninsula Road!

And compare those with this photo taken August 23, 2003.  

Guatemala City...

We are in Guatemala City for a few days... staying at the Radisson.  Nice suite and super fast WiFi... makes BTL seem anemic.  I had noticed several small red delivery motorbikes as we walked around... and then we happened by a MacDonald's. If you work here, you don't even have to leave your desk to get that Big Mac! We stopped in and they also have one of the new coffee bars that are competing for Starbuck's business.  I think it's working. We even have an Appleby's across from the hotel.  More photos.

Favorite Plumeria

Last fall, we stuck a scrawny Frangipani plant "leftover" from some moving and shuffling of the Kokomo and Maine Stay landscape next to the workshop container. Had no idea what color it was or whether or not it was worth saving. And one of the "oddities" of Plumeria is how really ugly the plant is when it's not in bloom. It really looks like a small tree and if you didn't know, you would think it was dying. Lesson learned for us... never give up on these and put them somewhere that you can tolerate the "ugly" bloomless periods. They do well just in the Peninsula sand, but probably better with some good soil and fertilizer added and lots of water.

Me and My Chevy Van...

For quite a while now I have been wanting a vehicle to transport us in some comfort and still have secure cargo space.  Those "stock up" trips to Dangriga, Belmopan, or Belize City have been getting pretty awkward in a small pick up.  And squeezing in 4 guests and luggage... not great. And, of course I have been lusting after all the fancy new passenger vans that all the resorts on the Peninsula seem to have... they are gorgeous, and carry a gazillion passengers and luggage in style. But holy cow, are they expensive!

A few weeks ago, I saw a "For Sale" sign on a considerably older looking red Chevy van that one of the tour operators has had for his family.  They run a Catamaran during the season and go back to the States in the summer. Each year they buy an older serviceable vehicle and drive it back to Belize... this 1989 Chevy "Beauville" van was a church vehicle for many years and they purchased it and drove it down last year.  I don't think it had ever had a coat of wax, so after some rubbing compound and a coat of Simonize it looks new. 

We struck a deal and after some mechanical and body work, Karen and I are now the proud owners of a very nice air-conditioned HUGE van!  Not great gas mileage, but we don't go far very often, and when we do it's in style and with plenty of room! And I won't even try to explain what "order of magnitude" less money it cost to acquire, fix-up, insure and register this instead of a new one!

No... we don't run a plant nursery!

At least that's what Karen tells the folks who stop to see if they can buy her propagated cuttings. It's that time of year, as we come slowly in to some more reliable and frequent rains, to get things ready to go in to the ground. What you see here are Oleander, Ixora and a lot of Bandolero (Agave). Karen puts these cuttings in a home-brew potting mix of equal parts of... sand, black soil and hardwood sawdust. Add some 14-14-14 fertilizer and some dry cow manure and water and sun. In a few weeks they are ready to plant. 

Jaguar...

Nice  New York Times article, with commentary and video of Alan Rabinowitz, author of the book "Jaguar: One Man's Struggle To Establish The World's First Jaguar Preserve."

The Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary is beautiful, visited by many of our guests, and is located very near us in Belize. Hiking trails include gorgeous waterfalls and river tubing.

Lagoon Delight...

Sometime the light is perfect...

and it's a bit of magic.

A New Addition...

Miss Mina (Meena) is a wonderful addition to our family "pack"... she is a purebred German Shepard, and is just delightful. Almost 4 years old, she has had one litter and is now spayed. Gentle, affectionate and extremely well behaved, she loves riding in the truck, and escorting Dad on his daily "gate rounds." We are so fortunate to have her in our family.

Belize- "Treehouse Perspectives"

If you have any interest in Belize and especially if you already have been "bitten" by the Belize bug... get a copy of this book and sit down and enjoy. I saw this book at Placencia Office Supply and even though it was wrapped in plastic, so I couldn't flip through the pages, I decided to take a chance. I am glad I did.

"Treehouse Perspectives" will test your notions of what it means to live in a third world country. Even if you have never considered the idea, and especially not in the thoroughly immersed way that Tina and Kirby did it, you will find yourself imagining the possibilities.

Set in the remote Toledo District of Belize and beginning back in the early 1970s, the Salisbury's began their odyssey with the barest of resources and little more than a dream.

They chronicle their adventures as alternating vignettes, delighting the reader with details of living that one would ordinarily think might be boring. Far from it. The narratives are at times lyrical and Tina especially has a gift for finding the "pulse" of the  moment, etching for me the words that have eluded my vocabulary, describing why Belize grabs many of us.

No one who has the dream of "escaping" to somewhere, will be bored by this book. The path the Salisbury family took and the rough edges they endured and magnificently adjusted to and thrived on, are not for everyone. But the lessons they learned about the culture of Belize and its' people are terribly important...

After the rain...

This morning, just after a brief rain shower, I grabbed the Nikon D80 and did a little walkabout...

  

and then the sun came out...

Belize Slide Show...

Here are a couple pics and a slide show of some recent favorite shots around The Maine Stay and Kokomo.  Enjoy.

We recently trimmed out a lot of the "jungle" to get some more sun!

This is my "office" out in our garden palapa... where we spend most of our time.

Return to Belize!

Just returned from a week in San Diego to attend a family wedding.  We love San Diego and visiting family. The wedding was wonderful and Kerianne and Christopher are enjoying a wonderful honeymoon in Australia!  The weather in SD was unusually cold for this time of year and we froze our Belizean butts off!  (And yes, we can both say "Belizean" now... Karen finally and officially has her permanent residency). Temps in the 50s probably seem mild to most of you, but we just aren't used to that. 

The wonderful part of this trip was getting to see family. Our daughter Kristen, her husband Christopher and, of course, grandkids Tate and Eva came from Maine for the wedding. Our son Steven came down from LA as well... and was a great guide! 

Hosting all of this with her usual calm aplomb and efficiency was my sister Deb and her husband Bim.  Amazes me how they put up with all the confusion! 

OK, now on to the "other" stuff... did you know that Cadillac SUVs in southern California exiting upscale shopping centers have bumper stickers that say "goeth intercourse thyself" ???  I guess my first visit to an Apple store (I love my Mac computers) was designed to test both my sensibilities and gadget envy!

I was so blown away by the Apple store... I really did not expect a crowd on a Thursday morning. We walked in to see folks at every station... and I really wanted to bring back a 21 inch iMac. Sorry, too big for carry on.  So, as my tongue hangs out... we leave. Sigh... and then there is the soon to be, but not yet available iPad. Oh well, maybe next trip.

Then again... how do we folks living here in Belize have a clue? We thrive on the ins and outs of daily living.  Can we weld this back together?  Is the table saw blade cutting true enough to finish this project?  Where are the those replacement motor brushes for the router? Is there another safety switch or belt for the dryer in Cabana Suite I ?? How many sheets do we need for the guests coming in? For those of you thinking about coming here... don't hesitate, it's all good.  

Our trip to San Diego yielded scads of sewing goodies for Karen... bags of little things I can't even begin to enumerate.   And I bought three pairs of shoes... and Karen was in the same HUGE shoe store and didn't buy a thing. Go figure.  Then we went to the woodworking tools specialty store (how exciting for Karen and Deb) to buy/order motor brushes, planer blades and misc other stuff. 

And then on the last day before we departed for Belize... we packed our bags.  Except we finally figured out that we could do another bag... four, not three!  So, off we went to the Mall at 8 pm.  And I can't tell you how exciting it is to buy towels and a Moen kitchen faucet at that time of night. That's surely how Karen and Deb must have felt in the woodworking store!  

The trip back to Belize was fairly uneventful.  We breezed through customs and made the last plane on Maya Island Air to Placencia. The Continental flight from Houston was 20 minutes late but as usual, they held the Maya flight till all the Placencia folks were through immigration and customs. It's always fun to watch the passengers (mostly tourists) get so excited about finally arriving in Belize, flying on the great Cessna Caravan 12 passenger planes and ogling the scenery as we fly along the coast. It is pretty spectacular.  Of course, those who rent a vehicle at the airport and drive to Placencia, get an equally stunning trip along the Hummingbird Highway.  

All-in-all, a very wonderful trip... but it's great to be home!

  

Fly Fishing in Belize...

Fred Arbona is one of those kind of folks that make me want to learn a skill, just for the sake of saying I did it. His enthusiasm for fly fishing is born out of years of experience and his expertise is widely acclaimed.  We got to know Fred in one of those strange (but happens so often in Belize) coming together of events.  One of the local Placencia Humane Society veterinarians emailed the membership about finding a place for Fred to park his camper for a couple of months while he scopes out the fly fishing scene in the area. Being curious and having the space in our lagoon marina, we began corresponding with Fred. Fred made the trek down from Arizona, through Mexico (a whole story for later) and arrived last week. His truck and camper set up is perfect... and even holds his small pontoon boat and motor. He has been getting to know the local folks and has figured out more in a few days and made more friends than I would have thought possible. Yesterday, while out with a local guide, he brought back tons of "fish stories" and promises of scads of snook. The bonefish, permit and tarpon better watch out!  More later...